The weekend of Sept. 7
th
all 5 of us took the trip of a lifetime to Semuc Chempay (a nature reserve near
about an hour outside the city of
Coban and the
village of Lanquin). Honestly, I think this is The
Garden of Eden. Take a look at the photos and try to argue. That said it wasn’t
exactly a relaxing weekend, but it was amazing and an adventure in every sense
of the word!
We got to our “hotel” just outside
of the
village of
Lanquin in the dark of
night. We new the hostel would be “rustic” but some really big eight legged
creatures, and another with even more legs gave the term new meaning for me. We
had been told we’d have 5 beds for 5 people, but with our lack of communicating
we had 4 beds for 5 people or so we thought. So Laura and I shared a twin bed.
A lack of space became a second concern after we realized the beds were
basically hard as concrete.
We found out the next morning that
there was another bed in a third room. That would have been for Kevin. However,
I decided I didn’t mind sharing a bed a second night and having Kevin stay in
our room after seeing a very large cockroach scurry under his bed.
Kiddissa was quick to inform us
after taking a shower that night that she wasn’t alone. Two very large spiders
had taken refuge from the rain in the very tiny shower. She smashed one with
her shampoo bottle, but the other was out of reach. Now I’ve been known to
exaggerate on the size of spiders before so I wish I had a photo to show you.
However, I did later see the one that escaped the shampoo massacre. Including
its legs it was about the size of my palm! Therefore showering very quickly
dropped off my priority list especially since we’d be in the water the next
day.
So Saturday morning we got up, ate
our breakfast of the best banana bread ever and then got a ride from the agency
to a restaurant where we’d catch our “transport” to Semuc Chempay. There were
about 10 others there as well waiting to catch a ride. Our “ride” showed up. A
single pick-up truck with rigging in the back so that we could hold on. Imagine
riding a crowded city bus, but without an exterior shell to keep you from
falling out onto the road. We pile in like cattle and hold on for dear life as we
head out of town further up the winding rocky mountain road which at some points
was more of a washed out trail than anything.
Around every bend is another sight
that you’re sure is the most beautiful view imaginable. Then through a clearing
in the hills steeped with giant corn stalks we caught a glimpse of what we came
to see. Way down below us is the bright turquoise river that looks like a
wonderful escape from the sun baking us. It’s a good thing we all sprayed on
several coats of sunscreen and bug spray.
After about 15 minutes of bumping
along our arms and stomachs were all becoming a bit weak. Thankfully we arrived
at our next jumping off point, a hotel, not long after. Another group joined
ours and soon we were off in search of the perfect postcard photo overlooking
the river and the naturally formed pools nestled in the dense almost jungle
like forest.
Our guide told us it would take
about 40 minutes to reach the top where we could rest and take pictures.
Despite the temperature not being all that hot and even hiking through very
shaded areas the sweat was running off us faster than even the river was
moving. I’d forgotten what tropical humidity felt like. While the hike
literally breathtaking the view also took your breath away. With each new sight
I found myself amazed that a place this beautiful could exist in the world.
With our memories now captured on
camera we headed back down through the woods. About halfway down a voice behind
me said, “Hey guys, look there’s monkeys!” The national geographic wannabe in
me whipped around at lightning pace with camera in hand. It was unreal! At
first there was just one monkey and close enough that if I was a little taller
I could have reached. She was quite interested in having her photo taken too.
Then further back on the branch appeared a second smaller monkey (likely her
baby). She started to climb down towards us, and that’s when I remembered and
someone else stated that she could attack if we weren’t careful. After one more
quick shot we let them be.
The group almost made it down to
the natural pools without incident, when Laura took a decent fall sliding down
a few steps. Thankfully, Kevin who was just a step or two in front sort of
soccer mom armed her and stopped her from sliding further. Besides being
shaken, pumped full of adrenaline and decently bruised she was okay. Then just
a minute later another gal took a spill on the same damp wooden step. She
however was a bit worse for the wear. I think she banged up her elbow and ankle
pretty bad, but I’m not really sure what happened after because our guide told
us to continue on to the pools.
We first stopped off in a shallow
part of the river over looking a powerful waterfall that somehow continued on
below us. A bit further along the path and we were at the swimming area. The
pools are basically wide stepped areas in the river. Kevin, Laura and Emily
quickly jumped in over a small waterfall/ledge for the deeper end while
Kiddissa and I chilled in the upper more shallow part for a while. When my
sense of adventure and need to swim took over I jumped in making sure to avoid
a large rock someone said was below. I feel bad for whoever discovered it was
there.
I swam out to the other three who
were standing on a large rock trying to catch small fish in their hands. I
prefer a rod and reel. I told them their odds were better in the shallow part
where there were tons of minnow sized fish. If you could sit still long enough
the fish congregated on your toes and feet for a suckling feast of whatever
delicious things may be on your feet. Emily, Kiddissa and Kevin were much more
able to withstand the tickling as the fish gave them free pedicures. Apparently
I am far too ticklish, and the whole idea simply was too gross for Laura.
Further down the river Laura discovered a
small waterfall that we used as a slide down to another level. Just as we hoped
to take the next little slide down our guide was calling us in to head back to
the hotel for lunch. There was one more pool on the way back with a tall
waterfall (20ft or so) where people were jumping off. My sense of survival
would’ve definitely out ruled my sense of adventure on that one.
Let me just say for this next part
I did not have my camera because it was not waterproof. I so much wish that
wasn’t the case so you’ll just have to imagine all this.
After lunch came the real
adventure… navigating our way through a cave through which the river was
running and doing so with only a candle in hand. Well sort of, I also had a
small flashlight and Laura had her headlamp. Still though we had no real idea
of what we were getting into. Which looking back is probably for the better
because I don’t know that I could have made myself do all of it.
The first 200 yards or so were
pretty straight forward minus having to duck for the occasional giant
stalactite. It gradually got deeper until suddenly the line of people in front
of you is up to their armpits in water. No biggy, right? Since, I’ve basically
got 6 inches on all of them I figured no worries. I look ahead again at the
line of people lit only by the small candle in their hands, and see that they
are definitely now swimming. This of course is not easy with a candle in one
hand. I lasted as long as possible walking on my tip toes with my candle held
out of the water. With about 100 yards to go before reaching a ladder I gave in
and sort of tread water/ one-handed doggy paddled.
I soon realized climbing a ladder
that’s tied to a rock wall with a candle isn’t much easy than swimming with a
candle. After nearly loosing my footing I reached the top where I now had to
remind myself that I’m “not closterphobic”. A low hanging stalactite meant crawling
to reach a larger opening. Just as I thought it was safe to stand up I noticed
the large crater to my right. After precariously maneuvering around the hole it
was just a matter of waiting for the rest of our group and guides to get up
there before forging ahead.
It was back to much drier land for
a little while, but soon we found ourselves swimming and wading through various
depths and forces of water. I’m actually quite surprised I never lost my
footing in some of the more rapid parts. Up ahead we could see what was to be
our next challenge although at the time we didn’t know it. About 200 yards in
front of us but off to the right was a pretty powerful waterfall running
through the cave.
The 5 of us were near the back of the pack so
for probably a good 30 minutes we just waited as the line of people slowly
moved toward (and we thought past) the waterfall. It wasn’t until I was about 3
people away from the waterfall that I realized we were going up it and that was
that. As I’m standing in line, my adrenaline levels rising as I inch closer one
person at a time the thought went through my mind, “Nobody has died doing this…
right?!!”
I really wasn’t sure how it would
work to climb up a 180 degree wall with water gushing against you, but I knew
somehow the rest of my group had made it. At least that’s what I assumed the
cheers were after each person disappeared into the water. I figured they had
attached another ladder for us to climb, and told myself I could manage that. Well…
you know what they say about assuming things.
I found out quickly just how hard
it would be. There was no ladder instead just a rope with a few knots for
grabbing. I had flashbacks to the “Gladiator Rush” I took part in over the
summer… think of an extreme obstacle course. I told my friends at “the rush”,
“If there’s one of those wall things you have to climb with a rope I’m done
for.” There was a rope climb then, but the wall was maybe only a 45 degree
angle. Who would have thought that climb was preparing me for this.
Now telling myself “you can do
this,” I watched as Kiddissa (just one person in front of me) grabbed onto the
rope and headed up into the rapidly rushing water. Just I’d given myself the
ultimate pep talk suddenly Kiddissa came crashing back down through the water.
The look on her face wasn’t exactly the confidence boost I was hoping for. Amid
the deafening crash of water all around us all I could tell was that maybe
she’d try again later, but now I had to go.
I grabbed the rope and stuck my
foot into the pounding waterfall. The wall was right there, but was worn
smooth. Looking over to our guide I yelled in desperation, “How?!” He pointed
to somewhere a bit higher up on the wall. I put my foot there and there was
actually a decent foothold. With a burst of adrenaline and unknown strength I
pulled myself straight up into the water now painfully pounding against my
whole body.
Almost immediately I’d wished I had
thought to take the largest breath of my life, but that was no longer exactly an
option. That realization along with not knowing how much longer I would be submerged
brought a certain feeling of panic to my entire being. It became a moment of
fight of flight. Thankfully, my body chose to fight. Somehow my feet once again
found the smallest of ledges to balance on and refusing/terrified to let go of
the rope I blindly pulled myself up once again. Suddenly my head burst through
above the water. With a life or death grip on the rope I looked around for a
split second… I was alive! I was not safe yet, but at least the self-inflicted
water boarding was over and I could breathe again.
Another guide was precariously
perched above me. I looked to him to fulfill his title, but all I got was a
bunch of Spanish that in know way was my mind going to comprehend at that
moment. I had to find the physical strength to somehow now get myself up and
over the waterfall’s ledge without falling some 20 feet. All I could do was to
tempt fate and continue blindly feeling for a place higher up for my foot. Somehow,
I was now straddling the ledge. Moving my hands up one more knot I was there…
safe! Well, sort of. After all I was still in a cave with a river rushing under
my feet.
Still holding onto rope now
tethered above my head I forcefully moved forward against the current until a
dry ledge appeared on my left. Then I realized the rest of the group was ahead
of me. “Yeah!!!!!!” I threw my hands over my head as the rest of the group
cheered and applauded. Take that Mother Nature I've got the big guy on my side!
As Laura put it, our guardian angels definitely earned their wings. I had just
conquered climbing UP a waterfall. Who needs a gold medal... but I do wish I
had a photo!
We all waited and cheered as one
after another the rest of our group accomplished the same great feat of courage
and physical strength. You’d think we would be almost out and back on dry land
after that. Not so! Despite the majority of candles now doused or shrinking there
was plenty more hiking up ledges and sliding into areas that you didn’t dare try
to find the bottom.
After what seemed like ages the
group came to a stop. Shining my light forward I saw someone climbing about 20
feet of a pretty sheer drop. It looked like a dead end… literally! I began wondering
how we’d get out and what other “adventure” I may have to conjure up strength
for. Still watching the young man precariously planted on the ledge suddenly he
jumped… or did he slip?! I was so confused… was he alive… what was happening!?
Instantly there was a huge splash below. He surfaced uninjured about 10 seconds
later.
Now a line was forming as others
wanted to take their turn at jumping into the abyss. While Laura eagerly
“jumped” at the opportunity I was definitely content to watch and pray that the
massive whole below was in fact deep enough that she would not coming out
looking like a crushed car. She safely and with great excitement made her jump
fulfilling a dream.
As for how we were getting out we
went back the way we came minus the massive waterfall. However, what goes up
must come down, right? We still had another challenge ahead that had me saying,
“WHAT?!! I’d really just like to make it out alive today!”
For anyone that has ever been to
the water park at Valleyfair you’ll be able to relate or at least picture my terror.
Ahead of me was a hole about the size of one of those tunnel waterslides, and
just like those slides water was gushing down through this hole. Imagine the
“fast” slide and triple the force. None of us had the slightest clue what laid
ahead as we were being fed into this waterfall. I thought it might be kind of
fun to go through a rushing tunnel of water twisting and turning under the
ground. My sense of adventure was tempered though by the realization that this
was really in no way like the tightly regulated water parks back home in which
I knew what to expect.
This time I told myself, “Take a
huge breath! Remember that time when you set a record for holding your breath.
Now would be a good time to do that again!” With a guide impossibly perched
about the hole he waved me forward. Shouting against the roaring water he
somehow explained through actions that I had to do exactly as he said. Wanting
to survive I followed his every direction.
Sit more to the left, but hold on
tightly to this piece of rock above you. Good! Now tapping my left foot he
pointed to a small ledge below amid the rushing water. Before realizing I
hadn’t taken a record setting breath I let go of the ledge above me. The water
shot me through with the force of a train. Everything happened so fast that it
wasn’t until I surfaced just a few seconds later that I could think about what
happened. To my relief and slight disappointment the giant hole didn’t lead to
a series of tunnels. I was simply shot through to a deep pool where the rest of
the group was waiting.
We were now truly just
backtracking. Now nearing the entrance with only Laura and Kevin left behind me
I stopped as something flew past my light. I turned around excitedly, “Guys!
There’s bats!” Then another whizzed by. We were all momentarily enraptured
until a third flew by. That’s when Laura brought us to reality by saying, “We
should get out. I really don’t want rabies.” Considering I’d opted out of that
expensive and painful series of shots I heeded her advice.
We broke through into daylight with
some of the most amazing adventures behind us. There was just one thing left
for the day, which I’d been waiting for the whole time. We were going tubing!
After all the extreme hiking, swimming, climbing and descending of waterfalls we
were all ready for a chill end. We grabbed our tubes and sank into the chilly
but tranquil turquoise river. For the next 10 minutes or so I reminisced about
times of tubing up north in DL and Perham. It made me wish I could have shared
the day’s adventure with friends back home.
That said I hope my short novel has
helped you picture the beauty and adventure of Semuc Chempay. I hope if you
have the chance you too can visit the most beautiful place on earth, test your
limits and learn that you can accomplish things you never imagined possible.
September 15th marked 
For at least a week leading up to
their Independence Day our teachers had been telling us about a “torch run”
which would be the day before the big celebrations. I envisioned it to be
similar to an Olympic torch run but on a much much smaller scale like a few
blocks in town or maybe from one edge of town to the other. Well, it wasn’t
exactly Olympic distances, but for someone (a.k.a myself) who isn’t exactly in
any sort of shape beyond a blob it was quite far. The route was 15-20
kilometers (about 10 miles) give or take, through multiple surrounding small
towns!
There were probably about 40-50
people (students, teachers, staff/community members) “running” in our group.
Anyone who wanted had the chance to run with the torch. I took my chance after
the group stopped to rest. Running with a heavy flaming thing close to your
head isn’t exactly easy so not long after getting my Kodak moment I handed it
off too.
Most of the girls got to dress in
the traditional clothing of different surrounding villages. The skirts are just
wraps of fabric held up with a belt that’s reminiscent of a corset. We then put
on a fashion show as the school’s director read information explaining the
significance of each village’s typical clothing. After our little show we got
to enjoy lots of local food including, tostados, tacos, chuchitos, mole (that’s
Mo-lay… not a small rodent but a dessert of seasoned chocolate sauce with
platanos which are similar to bananas but sweeter) and rosa de 
As for celebrations on the 15th
it was truly an all day event. I was awoken at 6:00 a.m. to the sounds of blaring
trumpets, pounding drums and pinging glockenspiels marching by outside the
front door. When I went down to the central park at 6:00 that evening it was
packed shoulder to shoulder. The crowds and marching bands were so numerous
that the bands didn’t actually march, but still put on quite the show keeping
time and even dancing in place. 
As the sun dimmed the lights on the show everyone’s spirits seemed to light up even more. Dozens if not hundreds of vendors were more than happy to sell you everything you never needed, from glow sticks to tostados with frijoles they just made in their kitchen. Passing one final band I was brought back to my days of high school pep/marching band as they played “Hey Baby” as if it were just as important as their national anthem. Now blocks away I turned around to see an impressive fireworks display. I stood in the street a bit longer as the bursts of light accented the waves of music bouncing off the store fronts. The bands battled on for another hour that night. With each step I took towards home the music slowly faded into the background leaving me with great memories of the amazing culture here in Guatemala.
