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Catholic. Photographer. Writer. Producer. Videographer. Editor. Spanish speaker. Passionate about travel, culture and giving you a platform to tell your life story. Firm believer that peppermint dark chocolate and autumn hikes can make any day amazing!

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Paradise Found



The weekend of Sept. 7th all 5 of us took the trip of a lifetime to Semuc Chempay (a nature reserve near about an hour outside the city of Coban and the village of Lanquin). Honestly, I think this is The Garden of Eden. Take a look at the photos and try to argue. That said it wasn’t exactly a relaxing weekend, but it was amazing and an adventure in every sense of the word!
We got to our “hotel” just outside of the village of Lanquin in the dark of night. We new the hostel would be “rustic” but some really big eight legged creatures, and another with even more legs gave the term new meaning for me. We had been told we’d have 5 beds for 5 people, but with our lack of communicating we had 4 beds for 5 people or so we thought. So Laura and I shared a twin bed. A lack of space became a second concern after we realized the beds were basically hard as concrete.
We found out the next morning that there was another bed in a third room. That would have been for Kevin. However, I decided I didn’t mind sharing a bed a second night and having Kevin stay in our room after seeing a very large cockroach scurry under his bed.
Kiddissa was quick to inform us after taking a shower that night that she wasn’t alone. Two very large spiders had taken refuge from the rain in the very tiny shower. She smashed one with her shampoo bottle, but the other was out of reach. Now I’ve been known to exaggerate on the size of spiders before so I wish I had a photo to show you. However, I did later see the one that escaped the shampoo massacre. Including its legs it was about the size of my palm! Therefore showering very quickly dropped off my priority list especially since we’d be in the water the next day.
So Saturday morning we got up, ate our breakfast of the best banana bread ever and then got a ride from the agency to a restaurant where we’d catch our “transport” to Semuc Chempay. There were about 10 others there as well waiting to catch a ride. Our “ride” showed up. A single pick-up truck with rigging in the back so that we could hold on. Imagine riding a crowded city bus, but without an exterior shell to keep you from falling out onto the road. We pile in like cattle and hold on for dear life as we head out of town further up the winding rocky mountain road which at some points was more of a washed out trail than anything.
Around every bend is another sight that you’re sure is the most beautiful view imaginable. Then through a clearing in the hills steeped with giant corn stalks we caught a glimpse of what we came to see. Way down below us is the bright turquoise river that looks like a wonderful escape from the sun baking us. It’s a good thing we all sprayed on several coats of sunscreen and bug spray.
After about 15 minutes of bumping along our arms and stomachs were all becoming a bit weak. Thankfully we arrived at our next jumping off point, a hotel, not long after. Another group joined ours and soon we were off in search of the perfect postcard photo overlooking the river and the naturally formed pools nestled in the dense almost jungle like forest.
Our guide told us it would take about 40 minutes to reach the top where we could rest and take pictures. Despite the temperature not being all that hot and even hiking through very shaded areas the sweat was running off us faster than even the river was moving. I’d forgotten what tropical humidity felt like. While the hike literally breathtaking the view also took your breath away. With each new sight I found myself amazed that a place this beautiful could exist in the world.




With our memories now captured on camera we headed back down through the woods. About halfway down a voice behind me said, “Hey guys, look there’s monkeys!” The national geographic wannabe in me whipped around at lightning pace with camera in hand. It was unreal! At first there was just one monkey and close enough that if I was a little taller I could have reached. She was quite interested in having her photo taken too. Then further back on the branch appeared a second smaller monkey (likely her baby). She started to climb down towards us, and that’s when I remembered and someone else stated that she could attack if we weren’t careful. After one more quick shot we let them be.
The group almost made it down to the natural pools without incident, when Laura took a decent fall sliding down a few steps. Thankfully, Kevin who was just a step or two in front sort of soccer mom armed her and stopped her from sliding further. Besides being shaken, pumped full of adrenaline and decently bruised she was okay. Then just a minute later another gal took a spill on the same damp wooden step. She however was a bit worse for the wear. I think she banged up her elbow and ankle pretty bad, but I’m not really sure what happened after because our guide told us to continue on to the pools.
We first stopped off in a shallow part of the river over looking a powerful waterfall that somehow continued on below us. A bit further along the path and we were at the swimming area. The pools are basically wide stepped areas in the river. Kevin, Laura and Emily quickly jumped in over a small waterfall/ledge for the deeper end while Kiddissa and I chilled in the upper more shallow part for a while. When my sense of adventure and need to swim took over I jumped in making sure to avoid a large rock someone said was below. I feel bad for whoever discovered it was there.
I swam out to the other three who were standing on a large rock trying to catch small fish in their hands. I prefer a rod and reel. I told them their odds were better in the shallow part where there were tons of minnow sized fish. If you could sit still long enough the fish congregated on your toes and feet for a suckling feast of whatever delicious things may be on your feet. Emily, Kiddissa and Kevin were much more able to withstand the tickling as the fish gave them free pedicures. Apparently I am far too ticklish, and the whole idea simply was too gross for Laura.
 Further down the river Laura discovered a small waterfall that we used as a slide down to another level. Just as we hoped to take the next little slide down our guide was calling us in to head back to the hotel for lunch. There was one more pool on the way back with a tall waterfall (20ft or so) where people were jumping off. My sense of survival would’ve definitely out ruled my sense of adventure on that one.
Let me just say for this next part I did not have my camera because it was not waterproof. I so much wish that wasn’t the case so you’ll just have to imagine all this.
After lunch came the real adventure… navigating our way through a cave through which the river was running and doing so with only a candle in hand. Well sort of, I also had a small flashlight and Laura had her headlamp. Still though we had no real idea of what we were getting into. Which looking back is probably for the better because I don’t know that I could have made myself do all of it.
The first 200 yards or so were pretty straight forward minus having to duck for the occasional giant stalactite. It gradually got deeper until suddenly the line of people in front of you is up to their armpits in water. No biggy, right? Since, I’ve basically got 6 inches on all of them I figured no worries. I look ahead again at the line of people lit only by the small candle in their hands, and see that they are definitely now swimming. This of course is not easy with a candle in one hand. I lasted as long as possible walking on my tip toes with my candle held out of the water. With about 100 yards to go before reaching a ladder I gave in and sort of tread water/ one-handed doggy paddled.
I soon realized climbing a ladder that’s tied to a rock wall with a candle isn’t much easy than swimming with a candle. After nearly loosing my footing I reached the top where I now had to remind myself that I’m “not closterphobic”. A low hanging stalactite meant crawling to reach a larger opening. Just as I thought it was safe to stand up I noticed the large crater to my right. After precariously maneuvering around the hole it was just a matter of waiting for the rest of our group and guides to get up there before forging ahead.
It was back to much drier land for a little while, but soon we found ourselves swimming and wading through various depths and forces of water. I’m actually quite surprised I never lost my footing in some of the more rapid parts. Up ahead we could see what was to be our next challenge although at the time we didn’t know it. About 200 yards in front of us but off to the right was a pretty powerful waterfall running through the cave.
 The 5 of us were near the back of the pack so for probably a good 30 minutes we just waited as the line of people slowly moved toward (and we thought past) the waterfall. It wasn’t until I was about 3 people away from the waterfall that I realized we were going up it and that was that. As I’m standing in line, my adrenaline levels rising as I inch closer one person at a time the thought went through my mind, “Nobody has died doing this… right?!!”
I really wasn’t sure how it would work to climb up a 180 degree wall with water gushing against you, but I knew somehow the rest of my group had made it. At least that’s what I assumed the cheers were after each person disappeared into the water. I figured they had attached another ladder for us to climb, and told myself I could manage that. Well… you know what they say about assuming things.
I found out quickly just how hard it would be. There was no ladder instead just a rope with a few knots for grabbing. I had flashbacks to the “Gladiator Rush” I took part in over the summer… think of an extreme obstacle course. I told my friends at “the rush”, “If there’s one of those wall things you have to climb with a rope I’m done for.” There was a rope climb then, but the wall was maybe only a 45 degree angle. Who would have thought that climb was preparing me for this.
Now telling myself “you can do this,” I watched as Kiddissa (just one person in front of me) grabbed onto the rope and headed up into the rapidly rushing water. Just I’d given myself the ultimate pep talk suddenly Kiddissa came crashing back down through the water. The look on her face wasn’t exactly the confidence boost I was hoping for. Amid the deafening crash of water all around us all I could tell was that maybe she’d try again later, but now I had to go.
I grabbed the rope and stuck my foot into the pounding waterfall. The wall was right there, but was worn smooth. Looking over to our guide I yelled in desperation, “How?!” He pointed to somewhere a bit higher up on the wall. I put my foot there and there was actually a decent foothold. With a burst of adrenaline and unknown strength I pulled myself straight up into the water now painfully pounding against my whole body.
Almost immediately I’d wished I had thought to take the largest breath of my life, but that was no longer exactly an option. That realization along with not knowing how much longer I would be submerged brought a certain feeling of panic to my entire being. It became a moment of fight of flight. Thankfully, my body chose to fight. Somehow my feet once again found the smallest of ledges to balance on and refusing/terrified to let go of the rope I blindly pulled myself up once again. Suddenly my head burst through above the water. With a life or death grip on the rope I looked around for a split second… I was alive! I was not safe yet, but at least the self-inflicted water boarding was over and I could breathe again.
Another guide was precariously perched above me. I looked to him to fulfill his title, but all I got was a bunch of Spanish that in know way was my mind going to comprehend at that moment. I had to find the physical strength to somehow now get myself up and over the waterfall’s ledge without falling some 20 feet. All I could do was to tempt fate and continue blindly feeling for a place higher up for my foot. Somehow, I was now straddling the ledge. Moving my hands up one more knot I was there… safe! Well, sort of. After all I was still in a cave with a river rushing under my feet.
Still holding onto rope now tethered above my head I forcefully moved forward against the current until a dry ledge appeared on my left. Then I realized the rest of the group was ahead of me. “Yeah!!!!!!” I threw my hands over my head as the rest of the group cheered and applauded. Take that Mother Nature I've got the big guy on my side! As Laura put it, our guardian angels definitely earned their wings. I had just conquered climbing UP a waterfall. Who needs a gold medal... but I do wish I had a photo!
We all waited and cheered as one after another the rest of our group accomplished the same great feat of courage and physical strength. You’d think we would be almost out and back on dry land after that. Not so! Despite the majority of candles now doused or shrinking there was plenty more hiking up ledges and sliding into areas that you didn’t dare try to find the bottom.
After what seemed like ages the group came to a stop. Shining my light forward I saw someone climbing about 20 feet of a pretty sheer drop. It looked like a dead end… literally! I began wondering how we’d get out and what other “adventure” I may have to conjure up strength for. Still watching the young man precariously planted on the ledge suddenly he jumped… or did he slip?! I was so confused… was he alive… what was happening!? Instantly there was a huge splash below. He surfaced uninjured about 10 seconds later.
Now a line was forming as others wanted to take their turn at jumping into the abyss. While Laura eagerly “jumped” at the opportunity I was definitely content to watch and pray that the massive whole below was in fact deep enough that she would not coming out looking like a crushed car. She safely and with great excitement made her jump fulfilling a dream.
As for how we were getting out we went back the way we came minus the massive waterfall. However, what goes up must come down, right? We still had another challenge ahead that had me saying, “WHAT?!! I’d really just like to make it out alive today!”
For anyone that has ever been to the water park at Valleyfair you’ll be able to relate or at least picture my terror. Ahead of me was a hole about the size of one of those tunnel waterslides, and just like those slides water was gushing down through this hole. Imagine the “fast” slide and triple the force. None of us had the slightest clue what laid ahead as we were being fed into this waterfall. I thought it might be kind of fun to go through a rushing tunnel of water twisting and turning under the ground. My sense of adventure was tempered though by the realization that this was really in no way like the tightly regulated water parks back home in which I knew what to expect.
This time I told myself, “Take a huge breath! Remember that time when you set a record for holding your breath. Now would be a good time to do that again!” With a guide impossibly perched about the hole he waved me forward. Shouting against the roaring water he somehow explained through actions that I had to do exactly as he said. Wanting to survive I followed his every direction.
Sit more to the left, but hold on tightly to this piece of rock above you. Good! Now tapping my left foot he pointed to a small ledge below amid the rushing water. Before realizing I hadn’t taken a record setting breath I let go of the ledge above me. The water shot me through with the force of a train. Everything happened so fast that it wasn’t until I surfaced just a few seconds later that I could think about what happened. To my relief and slight disappointment the giant hole didn’t lead to a series of tunnels. I was simply shot through to a deep pool where the rest of the group was waiting.
We were now truly just backtracking. Now nearing the entrance with only Laura and Kevin left behind me I stopped as something flew past my light. I turned around excitedly, “Guys! There’s bats!” Then another whizzed by. We were all momentarily enraptured until a third flew by. That’s when Laura brought us to reality by saying, “We should get out. I really don’t want rabies.” Considering I’d opted out of that expensive and painful series of shots I heeded her advice.
We broke through into daylight with some of the most amazing adventures behind us. There was just one thing left for the day, which I’d been waiting for the whole time. We were going tubing! After all the extreme hiking, swimming, climbing and descending of waterfalls we were all ready for a chill end. We grabbed our tubes and sank into the chilly but tranquil turquoise river. For the next 10 minutes or so I reminisced about times of tubing up north in DL and Perham. It made me wish I could have shared the day’s adventure with friends back home.
That said I hope my short novel has helped you picture the beauty and adventure of Semuc Chempay. I hope if you have the chance you too can visit the most beautiful place on earth, test your limits and learn that you can accomplish things you never imagined possible.

1 comment:

  1. I'm glad you're having such a fun an adventurous time! I'm slightly, ok extremely jealous while at the same time knowing that you are way braver than I. Every other line I was like...& I'd be dead.

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